Recipe: Travados
Nut-filled pastries
By Joyce Goldstein
Reprinted with
permission from Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean (Chronicle Books).
Every Sephardic cookbook and probably every Sephardic cook
has a version of these nut-filled cookie-like pastries. The Turks prefer
walnuts for the filling, but the Greeks lean toward almonds. I prefer the
filling that uses currants along with the nuts, as I love their chewy texture
after the pastry is baked. In Rhodes, travados were traditionally served
at Purim, while in Turkey they were on the table at Rosh Hashanah to celebrate
the sweet new Year, and a variation called borekas de muez was served at
Purim.
The pastries are sometimes dipped in syrup, although the
Greeks use a sweeter outer pastry and omit the syrup, instead just sprinkling
the baked pastries with confectioners’ sugar while they are still warm. If you
are nor going to use the syrup, increase the sugar in the dough, although in
this case I think the syrup adds a delicate texture to the dough. Travados store well in a tightly
closed tin or plastic container for up to a week.
MAKES 32 TO 36 PASTRIES
For the Pastry
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup
unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3/4 cup sweet
wine such as late-harvest riesling or marsala
1/2 teaspoon
almond extract
1 egg white, for sealing dough (optional)
1 egg yolk, diluted with a bit of water, for glaze
For the Greek Almond & Currant Filling
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 1/2 cups ground blanched almonds
1/2 cup dried
currants
3 tablespoons
cognac
2 to 3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
For the Greek Almond & Orange Filling
2 cups ground blanched almonds
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1/4 cup fresh
orange juice
3 tablespoons grated orange zest
For the Turkish Walnut
Filling
2 cups walnuts, finely chopped
1/2 cup
orange marmalade
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Sugar to taste (optional)
For the Optional Syrup
1 cup water
2 cups granulated sugar
3 tablespoons
fresh lemon juice
1 orange zest strip, 3 inches long (optional)
1 tablespoon orange-flower or rose water (optional)
Confectioners’ sugar, if not using syrup
To make the pastry, in a bowl, stir together the flour and
sugar. Slowly add the butter, wine, and almond extract, stirring until a
smooth, soft dough forms. Let rest in the bowl for 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter
two baking sheets with sides or line them with parchment paper. Select one of
the fillings, place the ingredients for it in a bowl, and stir to mix.
Pull off a walnut-sized piece of the dough and roll it into
a ball between your palms. Flatten the ball and place it on a lightly floured
work surface. Roll it our into a three-inch round about 1/8-inch thick. Moisten
a fingertip with egg white or water and dampen the edge of the round. Place two
teaspoons of the filling in the center of the round and fold the round in half
to form a half-moon. Pinch the edges of the dough together. Place on a prepared
baking sheet. Repeat until all the dough and filling arc used. Brush the
half-moons with the egg-yolk glaze.
Bake the pastries until lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking sheets on a rack.
If you are using the syrup, prepare it while the pastries
are baking: In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, lemon juice, and the
orange zest, if using, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the
sugar dissolves. Boil until the syrup coats a spoon, about 10 minutes, then
remove from the heat. Add the orange-flower or rose water, if using, and remove
from the heat. Let stand for a few minutes, then dip the cooled pastries in the
warm syrup and place on racks to drain for a few hours.
If you are not using the syrup, sprinkle the pastries with
confectioners’ sugar while they are still warm.
Variations
The same fillings can be enclosed in filo. Preheat the oven
to 375 degrees F. Brush a baking sheet with melted butter. Cut filo sheets into
three-inch-wide strips, and stack two or three strips, brushing each one with
melted butter. (Place a sheet of plastic wrap over any filo sheets you are not
working with at the moment to prevent them from drying out.)
Place a rounded tablespoonful of filling near the upper corner
of the stack and fold over the end on the diagonal to cover the filling,
creating a triangular shape. Then fold again, maintaining the triangular shape.
Continue folding in this manner, as if folding a flag, until you have a
triangular pastry. Place on the prepared baking sheet.
Repeat until all the filling has been used, then, just
before baking, brush the triangles with melted butter. Bake until golden brown,
20 to 25 minutes. Let cool, then dip in the warm syrup, if desired.
Alternatively, make cigars: Cut filo sheets into six-inch
squares. Brush a square with melted butter and top with another square, again
brushing with butter. Arrange a strip of filling along one end, fold the sides
in, and then roll up the square to form a cigar shape. Seal the edge with a
little water or beaten egg. Bake as for the triangles, let cool, and dip in the
syrup, if desired.
Joyce Goldstein is the
author of many cookbooks and also works as a consultant to restaurants and
cooking instructor.
Reprinted with
permission from Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean (Chronicle Books).
